First things first, I had to determine my destination. My goal was to travel the farthest as possible, to a foreign place that I had never been, for the least amount of frequent flier miles. There were a few contenders, but I set my sights on South America since I had never visited the continent before. The route I chose was 60,000 United frequent flier miles round trip, and I feel it was a terrific value since, in essence, I ended up with two destinations instead of just one.
My route started by taking me from Phoenix to Houston, and then from Houston to Panama City, Panama. I chose an itinerary that gave me a 17-hour overnight layover in Panama City. From there, I would continue on to my final destination, Santiago, Chile. I would return to Phoenix via the same cities, just with a shorter layover in Panama the second time. All together, including travel days, my trip was 6 days long.
Taking this trip (and choosing this route) was one of the best decisions I have ever made! Ultimately, I wanted to challenge myself and grow. I am an introverted and independent person overall. I have traveled alone before, but that was a very long time ago when I was still in college. I wanted to prove to myself that I still had the self-confidence and intelligence needed to successfully navigate my way though a foreign country, alone. It's also a nice change when vacationing to not have to compromise with someone else on what to do, where to eat, etc. Additionally, I wanted to use some of my long-lost Spanish language skills. And lastly, I just needed some time to myself, away from the stresses of everyday life.
My trip began on Thanksgiving Day 2014 and there were no lines at the airport. Having United/Star Alliance Premier Silver status offered me some perks on this trip. For starters, I was complimentary upgraded to First Class for my morning flight to Houston.
My free First Class breakfast. I didn't think I was very hungry, but somehow ended up eating everything (except the yogurt, since it has gelatin. Yuck.)
Hanging out in the United Club during my layover in Houston.
Next I was on my way to Panama! Silver Status gives me the opportunity to upgrade to Economy Plus seating for free. Lucky me - the plane wasn't full. I used the United App on my new (first ever) smartphone to my advantage and secured a seat in a row all by myself. Now that's what I call Economy Plus!
Plenty of room to stretch out!
Almost there. The sky was cloudy the entire time, so I wasn't able to catch any glimpses of Central America along the way.
As the plane made its descent, I could see fireworks going off in the distance in the night sky, which I felt was a nice welcoming. I landed in Panama City around 7pm. Once I departed the plane and entered the terminal, I was a bit confused at first as to where to go because the signs directing passengers to Immigration and Customs were only visible in an inner hallway. My spot in the front of the plane paid off, because I arrived at Immigration in front of a huge crowd of people. And there was no line when I got to Customs. The checkpoint officials that I interacted with seemed to want to only speak Spanish, even though my reaction was a blank face. Customs ended up being a breeze. I handed someone my paperwork, put my bags through a giant scanner, and I was on my way.
When I entered the Arrival area of the airport, there were lots of people crowded around waiting for passengers. I did not see any signage for Transportation, but I noticed a taxi kiosk with some young men standing around it. I knew that probably wasn't the best place to start, to avoid getting ripped off, but I was too tired and anxious to search for other options. As I approached and told them my destination, one of the young men told me that the charge would be $30. (Side note: In Panama, they use US dollars, which meant I didn't have to exchange money or calculate prices based on currency conversion rates.) I felt this was a fair price, so the young man walked me outside and chatted with me a little bit (in English.) For some dumb reason, I just assumed that he was going to be my driver. But, his job was only to recruit passengers and then walk them out to a taxi. As I entered the taxi, he stood there looking at me and then said that works for/takes tips. I was annoyed by this and taken off guard. (Side note: I did some prior research on tip practices in Panama, and it seemed like tips were not a common practice.) After about 30 seconds, and another blank look on my face, I realized that he was not going to leave until I gave him something. So I gave him one whole dollar.
My taxi driver was gruff and very impersonal. To my surprise, we went through a toll booth, and the driver told me it was $5. Once again annoyed, I begrudgingly gave the driver $5. My hotel was located in Casco Viejo (old quarter.) Once we reached that part of town, it quickly became clear that the driver had no idea where my hotel was located. He opened his window and asked random people on the street for directions. And I am fairly certain that he drove the wrong way down some one-way streets. Finally, after he first went to the back of the hotel, which was really the restaurant entrance, he drove around to the front entrance. He turned to me and said I owed $35! I was at my wits end by this point. I already paid $5 for a toll, and the original fare I was quoted was $30. I stuck to my guns and refused to pay anything more than $30. I don't know if I was happier to get out of that taxi or to finally be at my destination.
After some last-minute hotel changes three days before my trip, I chose to stay in a rather swanky and expensive hotel - the American Trade Hotel (http://www.acehotel.com/panama.) There were a few reasons for this. 1. I had a reward night from Hotels.com to use, which was worth $116 toward a hotel stay. 2. Since I was traveling alone, I wanted to be somewhere where I would feel safe and comfortable. 3. My time in Panama City was very limited, so I decided to stay in a hotel that was smack dab in the middle of the part of town that I wanted to explore.
The building, which was built in 1917 as luxury apartments, was renovated into a hotel and opened in 2013. The employees were very nice, and they didn't even expect or want tips. The bellhop who helped me with my bags left my room before I could even turn around to hand him a tip! Side note: I learned from the receptionist that ten years ago, prior to being renovated, gang members lived in the building. And now, the hotel's owner works with them through a rehabilitation program and they give city tours.
My "Cuarto Chico" room. There was nothing chico about it though compared to other places that I've stayed.
Evening view from my balcony.
Electrical outlets in Panama are the same as in US.
After getting settled, I walked around outside before it got too late. The hotel is located at Plaza Herrera, so there was a small park in front of the hotel. There weren't many people out and about. There were a few tourists, but it mainly seemed like locals. There were also lots of stray cats. I saw a few dogs too, but I wasn't certain if they were strays or not. Even though the hotel receptionist said that walking around alone at night would be safe, I did not feel totally safe and felt a little out of my element. So I didn't venture any further than a one-block radius from the hotel.
Plaza Herrera and my pretty hotel in the background.
Statue in Plaza Herrera of General Herrera.
Walkway along the side of the hotel.
I hadn't eaten a proper meal since breakfast, so I needed to eat dinner. I didn't find any worthwhile restaurants in my short walk around my hotel, so I opted to try the $60 prix fixe Thanksgiving menu at the hotel's restaurant. Again, this is something that I normally would never do, as I cannot justify spending that much on a meal. But, I decided to play it safe and treat myself. The restaurant was quite crowded, but I got a table right away. There were several large tables of people, so I felt awkward sitting alone, especially since my table was along the wall and I was facing the entire dining room.
I chose my options for each course and ordered a bottle of water. Next thing I know, a bus boy poured me a glass of tap water with ice. I was very confused, but don't think I showed any reaction. I did not drink the water, because I was not certain if I should be weary of the tap water in Panama. Thankfully, within a few minutes, a waitress somehow noticed his mistake, and took the glass of water away while saying something in Spanish that I couldn't understand. A few minutes later, I was finally given a small bottle of water and an empty glass. It took a while before my food arrived, but each course was delicious!
Ravioli starter course.
Shrimp main course.
Dessert - a fancy version of pumpkin cheesecake.
After dinner, I decided to call it a night and went back to my room. By the end of day one, I felt alright but a little weird about traveling alone. I had the impression that my night would have been a better experience if I could have explored, chatted, and ate with someone else. I went to bed around 12:30am. It was very difficult to fall asleep because there was a lot of noise coming from the streets - cars honking, alarms going off, music blasting from cars, people talking and YELLING. I think I even heard the hotel's fire alarm go off, but I was too tired to determine if this was really the case. I probably fell asleep around 2:30am.
I woke up quite early the next morning, shortly after 6am, and there was already daylight outside. I was still extremely tired, but I was very excited as my exploring of Panama City could really start now. I went into the beautiful bathroom in my room and took a shower, but there was no hot water. I was shocked and irked by this, considering how expensive the hotel was. I didn't bother calling the front desk to inquire as too why there was no hot water, but it was stupid of me not to. Perhaps it was too early in the morning and they hadn't turned on the water heater yet? Perhaps guests had to request that the water heater be turned on? Oh well, other than the water being frigid, the shower was very nice.
Early morning view from my balcony. That is Iglesia de la Merced directly ahead, circa 1680 when it was transferred piece by piece from its former location in Panama Viejo.
Standing on my balcony looking out.
Inside the hotel. My room was on the second floor.
After getting ready, I went right outside to explore Casco Viejo. The place had a very different vibe during the day. Some locals were walking around or sitting quietly and enjoying the morning. But overall, there were hardly any people around. And since it was bright and sunny, I felt 100 times safer than I did the previous night.
Morning view of the hotel.
The park at Plaza Herrera.
Plaza Herrera, looking the opposite direction of the hotel.
Casco Viejo is also known as Casco Antiguo and San Felipe, and it is an UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was founded in 1673 and was a vibrant area until the 1930s, when many people relocated to the outskirts of Panama City due to population growth. Buildings were abandoned and neglected for decades, but Casco Viejo has been undergoing a revitalization, bringing many of its buildings back to their previous splendor.
As I walked around, no businesses were open yet except for a few cafes. The majority of people that I saw were construction workers working on renovation projects. There were also a few tourists. (side note: None of them seemed to be American, as far as I could tell.) Other than that, the streets were very quiet. It was the perfect opportunity to walk slowly and take lots of pictures of the amazing architecture!
Walking down Avenida A.
The Iglesia de la Compania de Jesús (Society of Jesus.) And cats.
Some of the buildings are immaculately renovated.
Iglesia Santo Domingo (church and convent of Santo Domingo), circa 17th century.
My first glimpse of the ocean.
A cute little park as I approached the end of the road.
Some buildings are only partially renovated.
And some buildings need a lot of work!
As I approached Paseo Esteban Huertas on Calle 5a, I could begin to see the amazing skyline of downtown Panama City. I had been waiting for this view ever since my arrival! Paseo Esteban Huertas is a colonial-era promenade and seawall, originally intended to protect against pirate attacks. In the present day, there is a lush arbor of bougainvillea over the pedestrian walkway. Underneath, sidewalk vendors set up tables in the shade to sell local crafts and kitsch.
I thought this was a great view...
...until I came upon this one. So beautiful!
The vendors were just starting to set up for the day as I walked by.
Photographic proof that I was actually here!
More vendors starting to set up shop along the back of las Bóvedas (Colonial-era jail cells.)
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Zoomed in view from another angle. Can you see the ships?
The walkway continued on a little further, known from this point forward as el Paseo de las Bóvedas, and a large stairway led down to Plaza de Francia.
Mountain views, and somewhere in the distance is the Panama Canal and Bridge of the Americas.
Looking the opposite way, back towards downtown.
Looking down into Plaza de Francia.
The central obelisk, in honor of the entrepreneur integral to France's funding of the Panama Canal. That's a rooster on top.
Side note: Stupid me didn't know exactly what I was looking at while I was here, so I didn't take a picture of what was the actual doors to las Bóvedas (colonial-era dungeons/jail cells), which were located just to left of the scene above. So here's a link to that if you're interested: http://cascoviejo.com/las-bovedas-monument/. This site is also great for learning about Casco Viejo as a whole, though some of the info is out of date, as a few of the buildings/areas mentioned have undergone recent renovations. (I wish I would have known about this site when I was there!)
From here, I turned around and walked back the way I came along el Paseo de las Bóvedas and Paseo Esteban Huertas. It was still very early in the morning, maybe 7:30am, but it was already very hot and ridiculously humid. (I cannot even begin to describe it, it was so unbelievably humid.) I tried not to let that bother me as I ventured into a different part of Casco Viejo for the continuation of my wandering walking tour.
Iglesia San Francisco de Asis (Church and Convent of Saint Francis of Assisi), circa late 17th century, undergoing renovations.
Another view of Iglesia San Francisco de Asis.
Plaza Bolívar in front of Iglesia San Francisco de Asis.
Looking the opposite direction from Plaza Bolívar.
One of many small streets with an ocean and city view.
Plaza de la Independencia, also known as Plaza Mayor and Plaza Catedral, the main square in Casco Viejo.
Catedral Metropolitana/Catedral de Panamá (Metropolitan Cathedral), consecrated in 1796, and an example of colonial Baroque architecture.
From a different angle. The white towers are encrusted with mother of pearl from the Pearl Islands.
Run down buildings right behind the cathedral.
See what I mean? I'm sure some day these buildings will all be restored though.
I ended up working my way back to my hotel. I continued on the street behind my hotel, Avenida Central, toward Parque Santa Ana. As I walked those few blocks, the city life became more chaotic, loud, and dirty. The buildings were also far less pretty. I felt very much out of my element and didn't like the vibe, so after entering the park, I forewent taking any photos and headed back to the hotel.
Iglesia de la Merced to the left, and the back of my hotel (and my balcony) to the right.
By this time, it was still only 8:30am at the latest. My clothes were disgustingly damp from the humidity, so I was glad to be able to change. I also washed the soles of my shoes because I was fairly certain that I had stepped in urine at some point during my walk. I contemplated getting breakfast, but decided that I was more tired than I was hungry. So I took a nap until 9:45am.
Earlier, I had asked the hotel to call me a taxi for 10:00am, and it arrived right on time. The taxi was actually a van with a female driver, and I learned that the standard rate to the airport was $40. (Side note: This obviously made me feel a little guilty about my experience from the previous night. I guess $35 total was actually a bargain. Oh well.) This time around, the driver paid the toll, not me. Also, I got to listen to smooth American rock from the 1980s mixed with Christmas songs.
The lines at the airport weren't too bad. I passed through Immigration and then the Security area. Those processes were similar to those in the US. I still hadn't eaten anything, but the prices at the airport were high and I didn't see any food that I felt like buying. I did however buy a limón flavored iced tea for $3.35.
My time in Panama City was very short, but I felt like it was a great introduction to the area. The Colonial buildings were some of the most elegant and beautiful that I have ever seen. Though I didn't feel comfortable walking around alone at night, it was fun exploring Casco Viejo by myself in the early morning calmness. Unfortunately, I didn't try speaking Spanish very much while I was in Panama, mostly because I was self-conscious and already felt a little strange due to being alone. Going back to Panama is not high on my priority list, but if/when I do, I will definitely spend some more time in Casco Viejo. I would love to see the changes that continue to happen there for the better.
Up next: My trip continues as I travel down to Chile.
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