HoppsAround: Peru #17: Last Week

The theme of my last week in Cusco ended up being "surprise," though I didn't know that at the time. It sure made things dramatic and unpredictable!

Spanish class continued to be fun, as always. I had the same teacher for my final three weeks, though the students changed weekly. At this point I had an English/Irish female classmate, an American female classmate, and an American male classmate who was in the class from the beginning. Every week though, it was actually rare that everyone showed up to class, for one reason or another (sickness, sight-seeing, etc.)

Almost every lesson centered on verb tenses. These were sentences using Subjuntivo Imperfecto and Condicional Simple that I made up for homework.

In the course of talking, questioning, and joking around in class, we also learned lots of new vocabulary words. Here are some of my favorites, some of which are slang that is only used in Peru or Latin America.

chompa - sweater
polera - hoodie
chévere - cool (while giving thumbs up)
cursi - cheesy (corny)
Jan Ken Po - what to say when playing Rock Paper Scissors (and I think this is actually Japanese)
nariz tupida - stuffy nose
causa or broster - bro
tranqui - cool, chill
quenjón/a - whiner
asqueroso/a - gross
chatarra - junk and junk food
En serio? - Really?
parrandear - to party
malgastar - wasted
tener resaca - to have a hangover
coquetear or filtrear - flirt
mensaje de texto - text message
textear - to text
apestoso/a - smelly, stinky
chismear - to gossip
charlar - to chat

Another strange thing that I learned in class is that there is no tooth fairy in Peru. Instead, rats are said to come and children money for their teeth. Rats!!!

On Monday afternoon, I had an interesting bus ride to work. I got some hula hoops from the volunteer supply closet at school to bring to the after-school program that I was volunteering at. I was a little worried about this though, because sometimes the bus is so full that I didn't know if I would be able to ride with the hula hoops. When the bus came, I was happy to see that it wasn't entirely full, although I did have to stand. Shortly into the ride, I noticed that one of the staff members from the school (the one who's name I was never told) was sitting in the front of the bus. The seat next to her opened up and she motioned for me to come sit down. This was so thoughtful of her! There were many people between her and I, so I worked my way up there as best I could without hitting someone with the hula hoops. We chatted (in Spanish) the rest of the ride. She was shocked and saddened to hear that that was my final week of volunteering. I was sad too, since we had only started to get to know one another and I found her to be extremely nice.

At the after-school program, after the homework was completed the activity for the day was yoga. (That's pronounced jo-ga.) This was a new activity that started a few weeks earlier. It was taught by one of the Australian volunteers who was working with the girls at a sister program. During this lesson, kids from both of the after-school programs were combined. I missed the previous Monday because I was sick, so I was curious to see what exactly the "yoga" lesson was and how the kids would interact. I learned that yoga is a term they used loosely. Basically, "yoga" meant "calisthenics," but the kids loved it and didn't know the difference. It ended up going very well, but I did have to yell at a few of the boys to spread out more and not kick each other in the butt.

Yoga.

Back in the US, this Monday was Memorial Day. So it was weird to think that while being unemployed, I was actually attending school and doing unpaid work on a holiday. Go figure.

By this time, I had gotten to know the kids and their personalities a lot better. I easily remembered the names of at least ten of the kids. But it was difficult to remember the rest because most of the kids did not attend the program everyday, and some seemed to only come once a week at the most. Another thing that ended up making it easier to remember some of the kids was that several of them wore the same outfits everyday. Once I realized this, there was no denying that some of the kids in the program were poor, while others must have come from families that were much more stable financially. I was glad to observe that there did not seem to be any kind of class separation in how the kids interacted with one another. Yes, some kids had their best-friends that they liked to be near, but overall everyone seemed to treat everyone else with the same level of courtesy and respect. I also realized that the kids had a nickname of sorts for me too. Instead of calling me profesora, most of them shortened it to just "profa," especially the boys...when they were whining about something.

Tuesday started off brisk. When I took a shower, the hot water stopped working almost immediately. Hot water here runs on electricity and I literally saw the shower control panel spark! So, I had to suck it up and finish with a freezing cold shower. Later, when I let my host mother know about it, she said that I would have "ideas frescas" (fresh ideas) that day. I guess that's one way to look at the bright side! (Side note: She called a plumber to have him fix the shower controls, but he didn't end up coming for a few days. She let us use her shower in the meantime.)

During the few hours I had free around lunchtime, I went to the local shopping mall to buy some supplies for the goodie bags I was preparing for the children. While walking the sidewalk up to the mall, I heard my name. I was very confused because I only know a handful of people in Cusco, so who on earth would be calling my name? It ended up being my Peruvian friend, Diana, and she was with her cousin. It made me feel like such a local to hear my name being called out and then stop to have a conversation with someone. Even stranger, on the way out it happened again! This time I ran into my host mother. And later that afternoon, I learned that my Canadian roommate was also at the mall at the same time as me. I guess this just goes to show how popular this mall is. Even if you only know a few people, you are bound to run into someone you know.

I wasn't quite sure what was on the agenda that day at the after-school program. Things were not communicated very well, if at all, so I just went with the flow and was prepared if it turned out that they wanted me to teach a lesson. The lesson that day ended up being taught by one of the staff members. They brought all of the young children together in the side room and had me sit with the kids as well. I was as clueless about what we were about to learn as they were.

There were hand-drawn posters of a boy and girl on the wall. The gist of the lesson was "What can boys do and what can girls do?" Though, really, the lesson was gender equality. The teacher had magazine cut-outs of various occupations and asked the kids if only boys can do the job, if only girls can do the job, or if both can do the job. It was great to see that the type of occupations she chose were very diverse and ones often affiliated with one gender. The kids answered "both" for almost all of them. At the end, however, the teacher said that there are two major differences between boys and girls (other than body parts.) She stated that women can bear children. (Yes, of course this is true.) Then she stated that men are strong (in the physical, muscular sense), and that the strength of women does not compare. (Um, I had an issue with that.)

That day, one of the girls asked me why I paint my nails. I told her that I don't. She asked again. I reiterated that they are not painted. I don't think that she believed me. We both left the conversation feeling very confused.

On Tuesday night, I received the following email message from my school/volunteer coordinator:

Greetings,

We would like to inform you that the transportation unions here in Cusco, as well as other parts of Peru, will be striking tomorrow, Wednesday May 27 and Thursday May 28. While there is a possibility that there may be some vehicles running tomorrow, it will be difficult as well as culturally inappropriate to use them. Therefore, we advise that you do not use any vehicles these 2 days.

During the period of the protest, it is likely that any available transportation will be greatly hindered and unable to pass on certain streets. Because of this, some projects may not be operational due to lack of transportation.

If you are a volunteer, please stay home both these days if you are unable to walk to your projects.
Classes will run normally here at school. If you cannot reach school by foot, without exposing yourself to protesting crowds, please let us know so we can communicate to your teachers.

This really threw a wrench in my plans! I was getting into a groove with this whole volunteering thing, and now I might not be able to go for the next two days! The threat of strikes is is a normal occurrence in Cusco so it didn't come as a complete surprise for this to happen. I was stressed out by the whole situation, but I had no choice but to take things as they came.

I ended up walking to school Wednesday morning since we were uncertain if the busses would be running. (They were. And the walk took about a half-hour.) In fact, the transportation strike didn't end up happening that day at all, but the rest of the week was still questionable. Because of this, the after-school program treated Wednesday as if it was my last day volunteering. (But I did not know this at the time.)

All afternoon, I was very confused about what the end of day activity was going to be and whether I was going to teach a lesson. I just kept helping people with homework. I almost started playing a game with someone when one of the staff members told me not to. I felt like an idiot for still not quite understanding the class rules or knowing what exactly was going on.

There ended up bring a good reason for her not wanting us to start a game though and for me being left in the dark. The staff members totally surprised me with a show by the kids. Some said heartfelt thank you's for what I taught them and for the classroom supplies that I brought, two said poems, two boys sang (with help from the crowd), and a few told riddles. (Do you know how extra-hard it is to figure out a riddle when it is in a foreign language?) They also presented me with a gift. After what I thought was a rocky start to my time as a volunteer, it turned out that the director of the after-school program actually loved me and was sad to see me go. The whole thing was so sweet and I felt like a rock star with everyone wanting hugs and kisses on the cheek. I knew this was incredibly special because the two volunteers who left during my first week did not receive a send-off like this!

Me with the kids.

My present, a journal. The director also wrote a note of thanks inside.

I also learned that day that the after-school program was going to be closed on Friday due to a staff meeting. That meant that Thursday (the following day) would be my last day...but only if the transportation strike didn't interfere. I felt very sad that night not knowing if that day had actually been my last day and if I would be able deliver the goodie bags to the kids.

A sample of what was inside the goodie bags. The girls got headbands and hair ties, the boys got an extra pencil. The supplies were a combination of things I got from the volunteer supply closet at school, a donation from a friend prior to my trip, and things I bought myself and with a monetary donation from my cousin.

I was able to get to school by bus on Thursday, but during class the protesters began to march on the street. This wasn't a good sign. I spoke to several staff members of the school to find out if the busses would be running that afternoon. I could not get any clear answer other than to wait and see.

Protestors marching.

I found it hysterical that a lady on the sidewalk was trying to sell blowhorns to the protesters. The hawkers take advantage of any opportunity they can get!

Thankfully, the protest did not end up lasting long and transportation was running as usual that afternoon. I was so excited as I headed to the after-school program. Things started off as usual, with homework, drawing, and coloring. As time went on, one of the little boys came over and whispered a question to me (in Spanish, of course.) "Is it true that you have regalos (gifts) for us?" I told him yes and his face lit up. Another little boy came over and asked the same thing.

Toward the end of the day, the staff had the children sit in a large circle. I handed out the goodie bags one by one, and each child gave me a hug when they received theirs. I don't know if I've ever received so many hugs in one day in my whole life!

In these pictures below, it is cute to see the kids who have already gotten their goodie bags looking though them and comparing the contents with the kids next to them, to see the kids next in line anxiously awaiting, and see the kids farther in line waiting patiently and trying to sneak peeks.

Almost done!

Once everyone received their bags, two of the staff members talked to the kids about what was inside. One explained how to properly brush teeth. Another talked about the tissues and said that they were like paper towels, but softer. She said that they could be used to wipe sweat or dirt off of their faces. When I realized that was all she was going to say about them, I also chimed in and said that they can be used for their noses.

Just like the previous day, some of the kids stood in the middle of the group to say thank yous. The boy who won the Mother's Day poem reading contest the previous week also recited the Mother's Day poem to me. It was endearingly sweet since it made no sense for him to recite it to me. "Mama, tú eres la mejor madre del mundo." (Mom, you are the best mother in the world.) At the end, he said that he hoped that I would return to help them again someday.

The kids seemed genuinely happy with their goodie bags. Inevitably though, you can't please all the people all the time. One of the girls asked me why the boys got an extra pencil. I explained that it was because the girls got headbands. Then she told me that she didn't like the color headband that she got and she wanted a different one. Her comment annoyed me, but I looked through the spare bags and exchanged her headband for another. If I recall correctly, one of her friends ended up saying the same thing. I stopped there though, and hoped that everyone would be happy with what they originally received.

In addition to all of the hugs that I received, many of the kids were very sad and crying when it was time go. I was also very sad to be leaving these kids and wished I could stay for a little longer. After the uncertainty of the whole week though, it felt so good to be able to work my last day and know it was my last day. A couple of the children ended up being on my bus when I caught it that evening, which was odd because this never happened before. The boy who read the "Mama" poem was one of them, and his stop was one of the first few. When he got off, he had some people get my attention and then he waved good-bye really big to me. It was the perfect end to my stint as profesora.

I had been invited to attend the staff meeting, which was taking place at the director's home. Her home was in a central part of Cusco that I was not familiar with. I asked for her address and all I was given was a hand-drawn map that made no sense to me and a description of where I should get off the bus. I was not provided with the actual address, only with an arrow on the map and was told that her home was on the second floor of a building in that general area. I asked the director for more specific details, but she pretty much only repeated what she already told me and gave me her phone number. When Friday afternoon came, I was apprehensive about the whole thing, but decided to give it a try. Of course THIS is when transportation actually became a problem. While on the bus, traffic came to a complete stop for a while. By the time the thing got moving again, the meeting had already started. I kept my eyes and ears open for where I should get off, but nothing made any sense to me. I ended up just going home. I didn't attempt calling because I didn't have quick access to a phone and I figured that my Spanish wasn't good enough for me to understand someone explaining directions to me over the phone anyway. I felt bad about missing the meeting, but I honestly think there was no way I would have found the place even if I did get off the bus in the right spot.

Sitting on the bus.

Now that I have had five months to reflect on this whole experience, I know that going here was exactly the right choice. Cusco had the perfect blend of city life, small town vibe, safety, sight-seeing opportunities, indigenous culture, food options, and warm people to make me feel right at home in a place so far away from home. The Spanish classes were very good for me. I figured it would all be "re-fresher" stuff for me, but I learned some brand new things or had things reiterated that I had long sense forgotten, if I ever learned them to begin with.

My volunteer program ended up turning out very well too. Yes, I was bummed that I was not placed at an orphanage like I had originally requested. I still would have loved to experience that. However, the placement I did receive ended up being very good for both me and them. I definitely gained confidence in my ability to be thrown into a new situation and figure things out. Like the saying goes, "You have to fake it until you make it." I had no clue what I should be doing when I started working there and was completely overwhelmed. But, I sat down and helped the kids as best I could. And I learned that although my Spanish was not perfect, it usually was good enough. And when I knew it wasn't good enough, I asked a staff member for help.

I also had no idea when I started that I would end up being the only volunteer for the last week and a half. I am glad that I was able to get my feet wet first, so by the time this ended up happening I was up for the challenge. I have no idea if a volunteer was placed there to fill my spot the week after I left, but I sure hope so. I myself would love to return there someday, but I know the chances of that actually happening are very slim. So I am glad that I was able to make the most of it while it lasted.

I feel that three weeks is the absolute minimum that a person should spend at a volunteering project like this. The first week is mainly spent getting to know the place and the people. The second week gets more interesting with you being able to add your own ideas to the agenda. By the third week, you really start to feel like you belong there and are making a real difference. As with all things, the payoff that you receive depends on the level of effort that you put into something. So, if you ever decide to do something like this, give your best and you are sure to make some sort of impact and have a rewarding experience.

I departed Cusco on Saturday morning. Most volunteers are in their late teens or early 20s, so they like to go out on the night before they leave. Since I'm old, I wasn't up for anything like that. I said my good-byes to my housemates and a very bittersweet goodbye to my wonderful host mother. She was definitely one of the reasons I enjoyed my experience in Cusco so much.